Don't forget to say "Hau'oli la hanau" today to King David Kalakaua; it is the 169th anniversary of his birth. (That's why the palace is draped in bunting. At 11:30 a.m. today, the Royal Hawaiian Band will play and there will be an inspection of the Royal Guard on the steps of the palace.)

On Friday evening, the Palace Hui is hosting a birthday celebration for the king (1836-1891) to raise money for continued preservation and restoration of the only royal residence on U.S. soil — in particular, to restore the king's wine cellar in the palace basement.

Curator Stuart Ching said there were many storage rooms downstairs, among them the wine cellar, which they believe was in the center of the space, the coolest spot (though still too warm for wine by today's standards). The king served some real treasures: Chateau d' Yquem 1878, Chateau Lafitte 1877, a magnum of Ruinart Per et Fils 1874 champagne, Ching said.

The museum staff is seeking period bottles or reproductions of bottles of wine or spirits to use in the display, which will help visitors envision what life was like downstairs in the palace. The museum has already received a 19th-century bottle of Chartreuse, a liqueur, and several original 19th-century wine bottles, both from California donors.

Big G's Catering has taken on the task of creating modern interpretations of dishes served to the king at palace events and master sommelier Chuck Furuya is advising on wines.

So what would have been served at a royal party? And how do we know?

Ching said programs and menus were customary at formal royal parties and, of course, guests would take these home as souvenirs. Over the years, such treasures have been donated to the palace collection, and they're also available in the state archives and at the Bishop Museum.

The planners sent five or so of these menus over to Grant Simms and his partner, chef Troy Terorotua, and the two put their heads together to create a menu that would include touches of the old while making use of fresh, local ingredients.

If you're interested in the Friday wine tasting, call for tickets, at $85 a person, at 522-0822.

Got side dishes? I'm still gathering ideas for holiday side dishes. What is it that you and your family simply must have alongside the Thanksgiving turkey or the Christmas roast?

Don't forget to tell me the story behind the recipe. This story will appear in December.

Write to: Wanda Adams, Food Editor, The Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802; wadams@honoluluad vertiser.com; or fax 525-8055.

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.