On a recent Saturday night, we attended a party where they served pork adobo on skewers — an easy-to-eat idea. This brought back memories of my first experience cooking chicken adobo, in an experimental-foods class at the University of Hawai'i. Each laboratory had a choice of any ethnic food. We chose Filipino foods because we thought they were healthy and tasty.

The combination of the cider vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaf make this dish distinctive and delicious. Bay leaves make the difference.

Although the bay tree is indigenous to Asia Minor, it has adapted well to similar climates around the world, including our own. You can sometimes find bay leaves at farmers' markets here and, if you get a chance to buy them, do so. The color is brighter and the flavor is much better than the bottled kind. If the bottle in your cupboard is old and the leaves are brown or faded gray, throw it out.

There are three major types of bay leaves: Mediterranean, Californian and Indian. The California type is similar to the Mediterranean leaf but has a stronger flavor. Bay leaves, which come from the laurel family, are one of the most commonly used herbs.

Bay laurels are prized, and this goes back to a story told of the Greek god Apollo. Apollo, the god of prophecy, healing and poetry, was in love with Daphne. Wanting no part of his affections, she turned herself into a bay tree. When he discovered this, he wore a laurel wreath in her memory. He declared the bay leaf sacred, and crowns of these leaves were given to victors in sport and battle. Poets too, received the honor. And that's why we have poets laureate.

CHICKEN ADOBO