Many people grimace at the mention of beets, those beautiful ruby bulbs loaded with flavor and sweetness. I suspect it's because they haven't eaten fresh ones.

I've been around fresh beets since I was a child, growing up with Russian grandparents. But I didn't develop a love for them until I was a chef. We used to put a pile of grated raw beets on mixed greens as a garnish. I couldn't believe the first time I tried them this way. They were crunchy, sweet and juicy.

Then we tossed them with a little oil and vinegar. They were so much better than the sliced, canned beets so many restaurants serve.

And while beets are sweet, because of their high sugar content, they are low in calories. They have lots of vitamin C and folacin. And the edible leafy green tops are a great source of iron, beta carotene and calcium.

This veggie even has medicinal value. A few years back, I was visiting my girlfriend's Russian family in upstate New York. Her nephew had a terrible sore throat, and they fed him fresh beet juice mixed with honey and lemon — a traditional Russian cure.

Most of us have heard of borscht, the classic Russian soup. And you've probably sampled pickled beets. But there is a whole world beyond these dishes.

Try to find young, small beets with tops intact. (They are most commonly found this way in the fall.)You can cook the bulbs whole. As the season wears on, the beets get larger and, although still sweet, a bit tougher. By the time you see the large round bulbs sold without green leafy tops, they have probably been in storage and are not freshly harvested.

Look for smooth, glossy, round beets with the young, tender greens attached. Avoid giant round beets with blemishes, cuts and long tap roots. You might also be able to find golden beets, which are also delicious and tender.

It is better to cook beets whole, instead of cutting or peeling them first. This helps retain their nutrients and crimson color. Scrub the beets well with a sponge or wash them with a clean abrasive pot-washing sponge before cooking them. Trim the root ends just a bit, leaving the beet as intact as possible.

It's a good idea to cook the beets with a few spoonfuls of acid such as vinegar or lemon juice, to maintain their color. Or you can steam them over water or in a pressure cooker. After cooking, peel, slice or dice the beets and serve with butter, salt and pepper.

If you prefer, you can use a dry-cooking method such as roasting or baking that locks in and intensifies the sweet flavor of beets. However, these methods take longer. Save a little time by taking washed medium-sized beets, microwaving them in a lightly covered pan with 1/2 cup water for 15 minutes and then roasting them in a preheated 375-degree oven, wrapped in foil, for 35 to 40 minutes (depending on their size).

RUBY RED BEET AND WALNUT SALAD WITH GORGONZOLA