When Helen Wu heads out to a restaurant, she does so anonymously.

Reservations are not made in her name, and she doesn't tell anyone who she is. And she hopes her dining companions don't let her name slip in conversation.

As The Advertiser's restaurant reviewer, she tries to meld into the background. It's not to pull a "gotcha" on a restaurant, but to ensure she is treated just like any other diner.

Wu acknowledges a certain level of paranoia about the process, always worrying restaurant staff have figured out who she is.

But she conscientiously works at remaining unidentified, avoiding restaurant-industry events, such as the 'Ilima Awards or fundraisers, even though she gets lots of invitations.

Keeping that anonymity yet trying to keep up on changes, trends and the latest restaurant news is a tough balance, Wu admits.

"I miss out on news by not attending events," she said. "I'd love to get to know the chefs, get to know what they're doing, but I don't have that kind of relationship. It's like being on the fringe when you're expected to be immersed in it, and you're just observing, it's a weird balance. You're expected to know everything, but you're actually isolated."

It is, however, a process that benefits readers, who can get an expert opinion on a restaurant's food, service and ambiance knowing that the reviewer has not received special treatment.

Wu and her editors try to maintain a mix in choosing restaurants to review.

We try to keep up with what is new and generally don't review an older or established restaurant unless there's been a change, such as a new chef, new menu, renovation or new owners.

Wu and her editors also look for diversity in restaurants, with a mix ranging from fine-dining to mom-and-pop as well as variety in cuisines.

In the reviewing process, Wu will visit a restaurant at least twice. That's because a restaurant could be having an off night, and it isn't fair to base a review on one experience. If the two visits leave one bad impression and one good one, Wu will eat at the dining spot a third time.

As a reviewer, Wu can't just choose what she likes off a menu. She needs to order different types of dishes so she can get a feel for the kitchen's abilities and whether diners can expect innovation and flair everywhere on the menu.

"I'll try a specialty unless they sound lackluster," Wu said. And she tries to order one dish from each menu section: one fish, one chicken, one beef.

"I try to go for weird things, things I haven't seen on other people's menus. I'll also go for standard dishes, just to see how well they do them."

As for restaurant reaction, once a review has been published, Wu says it's a mixed bag.

But one executive chef recently thanked her for taking the time to review his restaurant and asked her if there were things she noticed beyond what was mentioned in the review. "He really wanted to know my opinion. I think that's the best way to react," Wu said.

She notes that a critical review gives restaurants an opportunity to fix any glitches. "I'm not trying to be negative. I'm trying to point things out for customers and the restaurant."

Reach Anne Harpham at aharpham@honoluluadvertiser.com.