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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, November 15, 2006

TASTE
Easy-to-prepare Island-style Japanese food

 •  New ideas from '70s TV chef Muriel Miura

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Yaki manju, a sweet baked pastry filled with bean paste, can be made with purchased biscuit dough.

Kaz Tanabe

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Muriel Miura's updated version of her 1970s classic, "Japanese Cooking Hawai'i Style," (Mutual, closed spiral, $26.95) expresses her practical, no-fuss approach to cooking. Most of the recipes use a minimal number of ingredients and can be explained in just a paragraph. In some cases, she offers even speedier variations using packaged ingredients.

Still, the book includes most of the everyday Japanese dishes that Islanders enjoy, from sushi rice to kanten, and covers all the key Japanese cooking methods (simmering, steaming, frying, one-pot cooking, broiling and grilling). An appendix offers the nutritional value of Japanese foods and a glossary to explain Japanese terms (although all cooking titles are offered in both English and Japanese). And the book is enlivened throughout by the mouth-watering photography of Kaz Tanabe and illustrations by Paul Konishi. This is one to snap up before it's sold out and to keep for reference.

Here, Miura's approach to a simple seasoned rice dish. Note that there are two recipes here: for sushi rice and for the flavored rice dish made with sushi rice.

TOSSED SUSHI (BARA SUSHI)

The gu (flavorings):

  • 1 medium carrot, slivered

  • 1 medium takenoko (bamboo shoot), slivered

  • 1 box frozen peas

  • 1/4 cup water or dashi

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1 teaspoon sugar

  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce

  • 2 dried shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted in warm water, slivered

    The rice:

  • 1 recipe sushi gohan (sushi rice, see below)

  • 1 (4-ounce) can unagi (seasoned eel)

    The garnish:

  • Fried egg strips

  • Ajitsuke nori strips

    In a saucepan, combine gu ingredients and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Drain vegetables and cool. In a bowl, gently toss sushi gohan with unagi. Arrange rice and unagi in bowls and garnish with fried egg strips and nori.

    Serves 6 to 8.

  • Per serving: 410 calories, 3 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, 550 mg sodium, 83 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 17 g sugar, 12 g protein
  • Ultra-easy variation: In place of gu, use one (7 1/2 ounce) can Gomoku-no-tomo (prepared gu mixture, found in Asian groceries and Asian aisles of some supermarkets); toss with sushi rice and garnish as desired.

    SUSHI GOHAN (RICE)

  • 3 cups rice

  • 3 cups water

    Vinegar sauce (awase-zu):

  • 1/2 cup rice vinegar

  • 2 tablespoons sake or mirin

  • 1/2 cup sugar

  • 1 teaspoon salt

    Wash rice and drain. In a saucepan, combine water and rice and bring to a boil; reduce heat to simmer and cook 5 to 8 minutes or until water level is reduced to level of rice. Cook another 7 to 8 minutes on low heat. Let steam, covered, 10 minutes before transferring to a large bowl or large shallow container.

    Combine vinegar sauce ingredients, and cook until sugar dissolves. Cool. Sprinkle half of sauce over hot rice and toss gently; using cutting strokes sideways across the rice to avoid mashing the kernels. Do not stir in a circular motion. Add more vinegar sauce if desired. Cool quickly. (Remaining vinegar sauce can be stored in a sealed jar; use as a dressing for tossed greens or vegetable slices.)

    Makes 9 cups.

  • Per serving: 300 calories, 0.5 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 250 mg sodium, 67 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 13 g sugar, 5 g protein
  • Namasu, Japanese-style sweet and sour salads, are a standard on Japanese tables. Miura makes this version with wakame (dried lobe-leaf seaweed) and cooked clams or crab. Note that there are two recipes here: One is for the dressing (which makes more than you need and can be stored in the refrigerator).

    CUCUMBER SALAD (KYURI NAMASU)

  • 1 cucumber

  • 1/4 cup carrots, cut into rounds or strips

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 cup boiled clams, drained, or cooked crab

  • 1/2 cup wakame (seaweed), softened in water and cut into 1-inch pieces

  • 1/2 cup vinegar dressing (see below)

    Cut cucumber in half lengthwise. Slice into thin diagonal pieces; sprinkle with salt and allow to stand 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse salt off and drain cucumber thoroughly. Combine cucumber with carrots, clams and wakame. Pour dressing over and toss gently. Chill and serve.

    Serves 4.

  • Per serving: 90 calories, 05 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 280 mg sodium, 170 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 12 g sugar, 6 g protein
  • VINEGAR DRESSING (NAMASU NO MOTO)

  • 1 cup sugar

  • 1 cup rice vinegar

  • 1 tablespoon lemon zest (finely grated lemon peel)

  • Juice of 1 lemon

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1 tablespoon mirin (optional)

  • 1 tablespoon dried shrimp, rinsed in cold water and minced

    In a jar, combine ingredients. Cover and shake well. Pour over vegetables.

    Makes 2 1/2 cups.

  • Per serving: 90 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 120 mg sodium, 24 g carbohydrate, 0 g fiber, 21 g sugar, 0 g protein
  • Baked manju is an Island favorite; here's Miura's recipe. Use bean paste or fill with fruit, peanut butter, flaked coconut or whatever you like.

    BAKED BEAN PASTRY (YAKI MANJU)

    The dough:

  • 2 1/2 cups flour

  • 1 tablespoon sugar

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1 cup salad oil

  • 6 tablespoons water

    Filling:

  • 1 cup prepared canned koshi or tsubushi an (bean paste)

    Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a medium mixing bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt and blend thoroughly. Add oil and water to dry ingredients, and mix thoroughly. Shape dough into small rounds, using approximately one tablespoon of dough. Flatten dough to form circles. Place a generous teaspoonful of an (bean paste) or filling of choice in center of each circle and pinch edges together to seal. Place cakes seam side down on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 400 degrees for 30-35 minutes or until golden brown.

    Makes 2 dozen.

  • Per cake: 150 calories, 9 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 50 mg sodium, 16 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 2 g protein
  • Variations: Use 2 (10-ounce) cans refrigerated buttermilk biscuit dough instead of mixing own dough. Or fill cakes with fruit pie filling.

    Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.