In the past they've fed up to 500, or even more, at the annual Chinatown Gateway Park Thanksgiving feast. But yesterday's hungry-crowd estimate topped 800 — the biggest bunch ever, according to organizers.

Donna Rewick, one of a small legion of volunteer helpers, said she was amazed by the outpouring of support for this year's 20th annual event, which fed turkey with all the trimmings to the homeless, folks on fixed incomes, and anyone else who wandered by and wanted a meal. As ever, nobody was turned away.

Rewick said she asked friends at Central Union Church if they'd like to donate to the Kau Kau Wagon.

"And they said, 'What's that?' And I'd tell them we help feed the homeless. And they said, 'Sure.' People just opened their hearts and dug deep in their wallets. From the church alone, we brought in 16 hams, and pounds and pounds of yams and cranberries and fruit. You know, things have been a little tougher this year for some."

Generosity fed the multitude in fine fashion.

"This all started with one person's vision of helping people," said volunteer server Lt. Gov. James "Duke" Aiona Jr., referring to Sharon Black, the driving force behind the Kau Kau Wagon from its inception. "And, of course, it came right to the heart of where we have a lot of our homeless problems. It's always special to come out here and serve these people and put a smile on their face."

This year, the smiles stretched all along South Hotel Street, starting at Bethel, turning the corner at Nu'uanu, and extending a quarter of the way up the sidewalk.

Many in line knew the drill by heart.

"I take the bus here every Saturday from Ma'ili Beach Park," said Stan Maku, 54, who lives in a tent at that Wai'anae Coast park. "They serve free sandwiches here the first three Saturdays a month, and on the last Saturday they have a hot meal. Then, the first Saturday after Thanksgiving they have this, the biggest meal of the year."

"Cowboy Willie," another regular, traditionally shows up for the Thanksgiving weekend feast decked out in his black leather vest, black Hopalong Cassidy lid, and size 13 cowboy boots.

"They do this every year," said Willie. "But maybe this year is the biggest. Because this year a lot of people are really hurting. There are a lot more homeless — because of the housing situation here in Hawai'i — and people have been forced to move out."

For one woman who identified herself only as "Big Red," it was a first experience with the Kau Kau Wagon's Thanksgiving extravaganza — which is famous for pulling out the stops and piling on the turkey, ham, mashed potatoes, dressing, rolls, and pumpkin pie with whipped cream. There was also clothing, toiletries and other accessories free for the taking, and, for the second year running, live entertainment by various performers.

"I'm just worried they'll run out of food by the time I get there," said Big Red, who brought up the very end of the line.

But Black's daughter said there was no chance of that.

"My mom would never, ever let anyone one go away without eating," said Nicole Black, who grew up watching her mother, who was once homeless herself, feed those who found themselves in the same boat. It hasn't always been easy.

"I started this out with two bags of sandwiches and two gallons of juice — and I kept running out, and I felt bad," said Sharon Black, who worked the crowd, dispensing warm hugs as freely as steaming helpings of turkey and gravy. "It's been tough sometimes. But somehow it just kept going. I never really thought it would last this long."

Reach Will Hoover at whoover@honoluluadvertiser.com.