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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, September 27, 2006

TASTE
'Bon Appétit' for every meal, occasion

 •  A touch of tart

By Jane Touzalin
Washington Post

"The Bon Appétit Cookbook" will appeal to any home cook with good basic skills.

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Barbara Fairchild has worked for Bon Appétit for 28 of the magazine's 50 years and has been the editor in chief since 2000. The 1,289 recipes in "The Bon Appétit Cookbook" (John Wiley & Sons, $34.95) are, of course, not hers; a three-page list of acknowledgments at the front of the book hints at the dishes' actual origins. Maida Heatter, Ina Garten, Wolfgang Puck and various restaurants in this country and abroad are among those given credit.

This hefty book brings together what the publishers describe as "more than 1,200 of the magazine's all-time best-loved recipes for every meal and occasion." A helpful opening chapter, "Notes From the Test Kitchen," offers realistic lists of basic hardware and kitchen supplies a cook should have on hand.

There are also quick instructions on procedures such as pitting olives, deveining shrimp, caramelizing sugar — and advice titled "Tips for Getting the Most Out of This Book" (if you ever wondered about the difference between "1 cup of olives, chopped" and "1 cup of chopped olives," here's your answer).

A sample tip: "To soften ice cream or sorbet for use in ice cream cakes or pies, microwave a pint container for 10-second intervals on low power (or the defrost setting) until the ice cream is just soft enough to spread."

A complete list of recipes at the front of the book is an extra navigational aid, supplementing the usual table of contents and index. Though this is not intended to be a quick-meals book, many of the dishes come together fast. Recipes reflect diverse regional and cultural influences without relying on exotic ingredients that are difficult to find. Surprisingly for a book that contains so many recipes (and so much attractive food), it includes just 32 color photos.

This book will appeal to any home cook (and Bon Appétit fan) with good basic skills who wants to create food that's interesting and flavorful — though not always healthy. Here's a sample.

Make this salad several hours in advance to give the flavors a chance to intensify. It can be served slightly chilled or slightly warmed, but room temperature is best.

Yellow Rice Salad With Roasted Peppers and Spicy Black Beans

For the dressing:

  • 3 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1/4 cup lime juice (from 1 to 2 limes)
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

For the rice salad:

  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup basmati rice
  • 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste, plus additional for seasoning
  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, white and light green parts
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • One 15- to 16-ounce can black beans, preferably organic, rinsed and drained
  • 1/2 cup chopped roasted red peppers from a jar
  • 1/2 cup chopped green bell pepper
  • 1/3 cup chopped cilantro
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chili peppers in adobo sauce

    For the dressing: In a dry skillet over medium heat, stir 3 teaspoons of cumin just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and whisk in lime juice and oil. Set aside.

    For the rice salad: In a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, combine 1 teaspoon of cumin and the turmeric, stirring until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the water, rice and salt, and stir briefly to combine. Increase the heat to medium high. When the water boils, reduce the heat to low and cover, cooking until the water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. When the rice has cooled, add the scallions and half of the dressing. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

    In a bowl, combine the black beans, red and green peppers, cilantro, chipotle chili peppers and the remaining dressing. Toss to coat and adjust seasonings to taste.

    To serve, mound the bean mixture in the center of a platter. Surround with the rice salad.

    Makes 4 main-course servings.

    Per serving: 322 calories, 8 g protein, 53 g carbohydrates, 9 g fat, no cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 424 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber