WHERE: Orange, Calif., the "original" Orange County town, settled in 1871 and incorporated in 1888. They say the city founders chose the name in a poker game (others considered, for the agricultural riches expected to flow from the area, were Lemon, Olive and Almond; streets near the town's historic district bear these names). A few miles inland from the boutique beach towns and far from the McMansions of "Real Orange County Housewives," Orange retains a flavor of its middle-class roots and California's farming past. It's just 15 minutes from Disneyland, but a world of reality away.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO: The square mile surrounding Plaza Square, with its fountain dedicated to veterans, is known as Old Towne and is mildly touristy. It is home to California's largest concentration of registered historic buildings.

The commercial heart of Orange today is the antiques district, as well as the many nearby swap meets. One street of the plaza is literally lined with antique shops and multidealer antiques malls. Everything from Victorian china to '50s Disney ephemera is represented.

East of town, off Highway 55, is Irvine Regional Park, founded in 1897, the oldest such facility in California and home to the Orange County Zoo, the Irvine Park Railroad and a number of popular trails. http://ocparks.com/irvinepark.

WHERE TO EAT: Inexpensive Felix Continental Cafe is a drive-as-far-as-you-need-to destination for Southern California's Caribbean expatriates, particularly those from Cuba, craving a medianoche — the press-grilled sandwiches without which no Cuban can get through the night (thus the name medianoche, middle of the night). Munch on fried plantains and delectable empanadas and try the tres leche cake. This busy, unpretentious spot serves lunch and dinner weekdays, breakfast Saturdays and Sundays; 36 Plaza Square; 714-633-5842.

Founded in 1899, Watson's Drug Store and Soda Fountain, 116 E. Chapman Ave., 714-532-6315, is still operated by the same family and is the oldest authentic soda fountain in California.

GETTING THERE: Orange is "landlocked" by freeways: I-5 (Santa Ana) and CA 57 (Orange) to the west, I-55 (Costa Mesa) to the east, CA22 (Garden Grove) to the south and CA91 to the north. From I-5 South, take the Garden Grove freeway east and take exit 16, South Glassell Street, proceeding north on Glassell. The Plaza roundabout is at North Glassell and East Chapman streets.

NEARBY: Orange County beaches, including Huntington Beach and Laguna Beach, west on Highway 55; Discovery Science Center, 1500 N. Main, Santa Ana, just east on Highway 22.

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.