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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, March 25, 2007

Scale Red Rock Canyon

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Staff Writer

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area has for years quietly lured rock climbers and other outdoor-oriented folks.

ADVERTISER LIBRARY PHOTO | May 2006

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RED ROCK CANYON

Red Rock Canyon is part of Red Rock National Conservation Area on the eastern edge of the Mojave Desert, 15 miles west of Las Vegas.

How big: 197,000 acres (about the size of Moloka'i and Lana'i combined

Highest point: La Madre, 8,154 feet

Age: 65 million years

Underfoot: Aztec sandstone, hard and consistent

Boasts: World-class climbing on more than 1,200 routes, from novice to advanced

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For climbers, it's not the Las Vegas Strip, but the nearby desert, that rocks.

Miles of Mojave wilderness, stumpy Joshua trees, the tang of sage and juniper, towering escarpments: here is the real extravagance in southern Nevada. Red Rock Canyon, just 15 miles from the Strip, is a climber's mecca.

"It's great for beginners and experienced climbers," said Coley Gentzel, program coordinator at the American Alpine Institute at Red Rock Canyon. Gentzel, 28, grew up in the Midwest and started climbing in high school. He's climbed in Alaska, throughout the Tetons, Yosemite, the Rockies and Canada. In 2005 he moved to Nevada to do what he loves most.

"(Red Rock area) is sandstone, which means a huge variety of climbs and routes," Gentzel said. "These range from bouldering done low to the ground, sports climbing, which is typically 80 to 150 feet, and multipitch climbs with ropes, for more advanced climbs."

"Sandstone produces small edges and ledges, which make for interesting hand- and footholds at all levels," Gentzel said. "There are not many places to climb you can say that about."

Or where you can climb (almost) year-round. Scott Schumann, 31, travels from Salt Lake City. "The weather is great in the winter. Rock quality is fantastic, and there's a lifetime of moderate multipitch routes," Schumann said. "Only drawback is the city lights of Vegas and wasting money on slots in the airport!"

Red Rock Canyon is less than a 30-minute drive from the Vegas Strip but may as well be on the moon. The only slots you'll find here are those between rock faces. Party animals? Think mountain sheep, snakes and "Mojave Max," the desert tortoise.

Not only is Red Rock itself a major climbing destination, but it's a short drive from here to many other prime climbing destinations, making it an excellent stop on a climbing road trip in the Southwest. Three hours to the south, in California, is Joshua Tree. Just a 2 1/2-hour drive to the north, in Utah, are the amazing sandstone cliffs of Zion.

"Climbing is best October through May," Gentzel said. "Summer can be very hot."

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ROCK CLIMBING: WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT

Don't know a belay from a boulder? Here's a primer.

  • Big-wall climbing: One or multi-day climbs on huge cliffs with ropes (pitches). Epinephrine in Red Rock Canyon is the classic.
  • Sport climbing: A style of rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors, especially bolts fixed to the rock at about eight-foot intervals, for protection.
  • Bouldering: Low-to-the-ground climbing on rocks without equipment or protective gear. Descriptions of Red Rock climbs: www.rockclimbing.com Closer to ground: Take the 13-mile scenic loop drive, open 6 a.m. to dusk that begins at the visitor center (702) 363-1921. To reach Red Rock Canyon from Las Vegas, take I-15/U.S. 93 south to Highway 160 and go west to Highway 159. Gear: REI, for all outdoor needs, is on I-215 and Green Valley Parkway (Henderson) in The District at Green Valley Ranch. Climbing Gyms:
  • Red Rock Climbing Center: Indoor and outdoor climbing to develop confidence, stamina and have fun. 8201 W. Charleston Blvd. (702) 254-5604, www.redrockclimbingcenter.com
  • Nevada Climbing Centers: The beginners and intermediate climbers' gym. 3065 E. Patrick Lane, Suite 4, Las Vegas (702) 898-8192, www.nevadaclimbingcenter.com

    IF YOU GO ...

    The American Alpine Institute offers courses October through mid-May with instruction, equipment and guided climbs at beginner, intermediate and advanced levels. Rates depend on number of climbers. A half-day begins at $105 per person. A full day is $170 per person. Pick up is at any hotel within 2 miles of the Las Vegas Strip or at Red Rock Visitor Center. Information: www.aai.cc/redrockinfo.asp

    RED ROCK TIPS

  • The weather tends to be friendly, but be prepared. Bring long pants and a jacket for the cold, and shorts and a T-shirt for the heat. Temperatures might be different in the high desert than in Las Vegas.
  • Sticky rubber approach shoes are recommended. These shoes have the shape of a tennis shoe but the rubber of a climbing shoe. They can be extremely helpful on technical approaches and descents.
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen are important any time of the year. The desert sun is unrelenting. Goop up before you go out, and always wear sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glare.
  • Snack food works best. Power bars, granola, easy-to-eat food all keep the energy up better than a fat sandwich, as you snack all day. Water is extremely important. Even when it's chilly, one must constantly drink. The desert air is very dry, and dehydration is a common problem.
  • Stay at a hotel. The camping scene in Red Rock is not very good. With more than 100,000 hotel rooms a short distance away, the luxury of a hot shower and a good meal after a day of climbing is well worth it.

    Source: Jason Martin, lead guide, American Alpine Institute

  • Reach Chris Oliver at coliver@honoluluadvertiser.com.