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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Forget about 'It': Some bags are best left on runway

By Booth Moore
Los Angeles Times

The Birkin, the Paddington, the Speedy and the Spy. Anyone who picks up a magazine or catalog these days knows it's all about the It bag. With the advent of high-low chic and today's more casual approach to dressing, accessories — not clothes — are driving retail sales.

It's easy to be caught up in the frenzy — the steady diet of paparazzi photos of celebrities carrying the latest bag (gifted, of course), the waiting lists that begin minutes after a bag has been carried down a runway, the limited editions, the purse blogs.

The latest It bag is the Yves Saint Laurent Downtown tote, size medium, in black patent. It's $1,395, or $2,195 with flower cutouts on the sides. Jessica Biel's got It in white, Salma Hayek uses It to cover her pregnant belly.

But the reality is, few people have the means to buy a new bag every season, especially when everyday styles cost $2,000 and up. So, Tim Gunn, America's favorite fashion authority from Bravo's "Project Runway," has a radical suggestion: "Just say 'no' to the It bag." This nugget of fashion advice and others are outlined in his new book, "A Guide to Quality, Taste & Style" (Abrams).

Gunn and co-author Kate Moloney talk about how to cure the It bag syndrome and choose a work bag that will last longer than a high school crush.

  • "Am I becoming a victim?" "Ask yourself," Gunn says. "And if the answer is even a remote nod to yes, then back away from the bag. Think about having things in your wardrobe that you will want to use season after season, instead of something you bring out every two to three years for a wedding."

  • A better buying policy. "Stay on the lower end for on-trend bags and invest in real pieces," Moloney says. "I like Mulberry because it isn't immediately recognizable. It's subtle, and I will have it forever."

    She and Gunn suggest spending money on your "workhorse," the bag that will go to the office with you every day. Choose a color that works with whatever dominates your wardrobe, and make sure the strap is thick enough to distribute the weight of the bag.

  • Pay attention to structure. "You don't want to look like you are carrying an amoeba," Gunn said. "Hobos are nice for a casual look, but frame bags are great for work." Bags with frames and feet have a more tailored, professional appearance.

  • Don't be an exhibitionist. "How and why and who?" Gunn scowls at an $895 see-through plastic Oscar de la Renta tote.

  • Size matters. "I see women carrying It bags and five shopping bags and a gym bag. Think about something that can accommodate your needs," Moloney says.

  • Bigger isn't always better. "Make sure you're buying a handbag, not a weekend tote," Gunn says. "Proportion is important ."

  • Runway isn't reality. "It looks like Cousin Itt," Gunn says of the $2,195 brown, all-over fringe bag from the spring Prada runway show.