TASTE
Delicious breads, desserts for those who can't eat gluten
| • | Getting around gluten |
By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor
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For those with gluten intolerance, the world of baked goods isn't exactly a closed book, but it's one they often open with reluctance. So many baked goods just don't taste right.
Bread, especially. Everyone agrees: It's impossible to re-create the taste and texture of chewy, springy, tender bread without using a grain that contains gluten. But given that, the following bread, from "The Gluten Connection," by Shari Lieberman (Rodale, paper, $16.95), isn't bad. The texture is fairly light and not at all grainy, a common complaint about breads made with alternative flours.
Testing notes: Don't panic when the dough turns out to be more of a batter, and when it is still soft enough to pour even after it's risen twice. Unless you have larger loaf pans, you may find that you've got more batter than will fit in one pan; my 8-by-4-inch pan overflowed during the second rising (I just scraped up the overflow and discarded it) before baking. You may wish to make two smaller loaves, in which case expect shorter baking time. In any case, don't fill the pan more than three-quarters full for the second rising.
Note that the top of the bread will be flat, not puffy and rounded as with wheat breads. Pay attention to your eyes and nose during baking; the times given here are guidelines. In my oven, the bread was deeply browned at 20 minutes; I then covered it loosely with foil and baked it another 25 minutes, until a skewer plunged into the center emerged clean.
For the flour mix, I used Bob's Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour from Kokua Market. This recipe is meant to work with any combination of gluten-free flours, but proportion is important so if you haven't experimented with gluten-free flours before, it's best to stick with one that's pre-mixed.
BASIC GLUTEN-FREE BREAD
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the mixing paddle, combine liquid ingredients and mix well.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, salt, dry milk and yeast. Pour mixture into liquid ingredients and mix 5-7 minutes, scraping down the sides several times until all the dry ingredients are mixed in. The mixture will be the consistency of very thick cake batter.
Lightly grease a large mixing bowl and pour batter in; cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel in a warm place. (One option is to heat an oven to 150 degrees; then turn it off before placing the bowl in the oven.) Allow the dough to rise until doubled in bulk. Punch down and fold into a greased bread pan. Smooth top with your fingers. Cover lightly and allow to rise until doubled in bulk in a warm place.
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 35 minutes. Cover top of bread with foil and continue baking for 20 minutes.
Makes 10 slices.
Variation: This bread works well in a bread machine.
This delicious banana bread was the recipe that encouraged chef Carol Nardello to think that she could continue to enjoy baked goods after she was diagnosed with celiac disease. It's one of those "they'll never know" recipes: You can't tell it's not made with wheat flour. Nardello, who serves as chef for the Sub-Zero Wolf demonstration kitchen in Honolulu, likes lots of goodies in her banana bread, but you can omit the chocolate chips and/or nuts if you're a purist. Soy and rice flours and potato starch are Nardello's favorite gluten-free flour combination. Xanthan gum is a protein frequently used to add a pleasant chewy texture to gluten-free baked goods; you can find it at the health-food store.
GLUTEN-FREE BANANA BREAD
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8 1/2-inch-by 4 1/2-inch loaf pan. In a medium bowl, whisk together flours, xanthan gum, baking soda, cream of tartar, cinnamon and salt. Set aside.
In a mixing bowl, cream shortening with sugar, beating until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and almond extract. Beat well. Add the dry ingredients alternately with mashed banana. Mix until smooth. Stir in chocolate chips and nuts if using, and pour into prepared pan. Bake for 1 hour at 350 degrees.
Makes 10 slices.
This is another of Nardello's "they'll-never-know" recipes; a flourless torte that's both easy and meltingly delicious.
FLOURLESS LEMON-GINGER ALMOND CAKE
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch cake pan; line bottom with a round of kitchen parchment. Place the almonds on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven for about 10 minutes or until light brown. Remove the nuts from the oven and set aside to cool completely.
Put the almonds and sugar in the bowl of a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the concentrate, zest, almond extract, ginger and eggs. Process until smooth. Pour into prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool 10 minutes before removing from the pan. Dust with confectioners' sugar, and serve.
Makes 8 servings:
Variation: An orange version can be made by substituting orange concentrate and orange zest. Ginger can be eliminated or left in, as desired.
When you serve this decadent dessert, everybody will be happy — those who can't tolerate gluten as well as those who can't even spell it. This is amazingly rich, a recipe that Nardello has been making for years, even before she was diagnosed with gluten intolerance.
TRIPLE CHOCOLATE FUDGE TART
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 11-inch tart pan and line with a round of parchment paper. Set aside. Place sugar and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, and whip on high for about 5 minutes until a pale yellow color. Combine cocoa and oil. Mix until smooth. Add butter to chocolate mixture. Stir into egg mixture. Add almond extract and chips. Pour into prepared pan. Garnish with slivered almonds. Bake 35 minutes. Cool in pan 30 minutes. Run a knife around the perimeter to loosen; invert on serving tray.
Makes 8 servings.
Variation: Add 1/2 cup dry cherries or slivered almonds.
Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.
