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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, March 5, 2008

TASTE
Say cheese! Grocers clamor for specialty food

 •  Stir up synergy

By Pervaiz Shallwani
Associated Press

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Katie Foy cuts into a wheel of Parmesan at Butter's Fine Food and Wine in Concord, N.H. Artisanal cheeses have become one of the hottest gourmet foods.

LARRY CROWE | Associated Press

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It's a strange turn for a nation that for years judged its cheeses by how well they melt in the microwave. Suddenly, we're inundated by high-end cheeses that challenge the palate in ways industrial cheese couldn't dream.

Welcome to the world of America's cutting-edge curds, where obscure cheeses can attain cult status and massive grocery chains tout cheeses that once wouldn't have made it in the door.

Mainstream retailers are jumping into the specialty cheese market like never before, says cheese expert Laura Werlin, author of "Laura Werlin's Cheese Essentials."

"Everybody is going to have more exposure and the ability to buy these cheeses," she says.

Why the sudden cheese surge? Artisanal cheese is one of the fastest growing segments of the $59 billion gourmet food industry, with cheese and dairy expected to see double digit growth through 2012, according to consumer research firm Packaged Facts. That demand has translated into retailers clamoring for the product.

But it also goes deeper. The collective American palate has become increasingly adventurous and sophisticated.

Some significant recent trends and changes to the cheese world:

  • Mainstreaming: No longer are fine cheeses the provenance of specialty shops as grocers scurry to get in on the artisanal cheese scene.

  • France comes wooing: All the attention has the French toiling to hold on to their share of the U.S. market. The Cheeses of France Marketing Council launched a campaign to remind American consumers to "remember that the original is France," says Phillipe Jachnik, group chairman.

  • Aging gracefully: Handcrafted and small-batch simply isn't enough anymore. To have curd cachet now requires a high-tech cave, where cheese can be aged.

  • More selection: Until recently, buyers had to leave the country to find cheeses to stock their shelves. When the American Cheese Society was first formed, members could count on their hands the number of American cheesemakers producing farmstead cheeses; now they number in the hundreds.