Priest's sainthood poses dilemma for Kalaupapa
By Audrey McAvoy
Associated Press
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KALAUPAPA, Moloka'i — In a state known for bustling, exciting tourist destinations such as Waikiki Beach and Kilauea, Kalaupapa is sacred ground with a history of disease, suffering and isolation.
Some 8,000 people have died on this remote peninsula since the Hawaiian kingdom started exiling leprosy — also called Hansen's disease — patients here in 1866. Many were torn from their families and left to scrounge for shelter, clothes and food. The vast majority were buried in unmarked graves.
Today, visitor interest in Kalaupapa, on the northern edge of Moloka'i island, is growing. And it will likely increase when the Vatican proclaims Father Damien — the 19th century priest who cared for the Hansen's disease patients — a saint, most likely late next year.
The two dozen patients still living here are eager to celebrate Kalaupapa's most famous resident. They would welcome pilgrims at Damien's church and grave.
Therein lies a dilemma. The patients and their supporters also don't want throngs of tourists disturbing the community's privacy and desecrating the land.
"The priority is the patients. That's why we have to approach this very delicately," said state Sen. J. Kalani English (D-6th, East Maui, Mokola'i, Lana'i). "Their privacy is paramount, their security is paramount, their dignity is paramount."
Kalaupapa's attraction for tourists and pilgrims is heightened by the dramatic story behind the Vatican's recognition of a miracle attributed to Damien, who died in 1889 after contracting Hansen's disease himself.
Audrey Toguchi, an 80-year-old Catholic from 'Aiea, came to Kalaupapa 10 years ago to pray for help at Damien's grave after she was diagnosed with terminal cancer. Less than a year later, Toguchi's cancer disappeared.
In July, Pope Benedict XVI ruled Damien had intervened because there was no scientific explanation for her recovery.
Kalaupapa is a peninsula cut off by 2,000-foot cliffs and surrounded by ocean. It can only be reached by small plane, mule ride or a 1- to 2-hour hike. Only 100 people live here, including the patients and care workers.
The state Department of Health limits visitors to 100 per day, and each visitor must obtain a permit. On average, only about 25 make the trip.
Lawmakers, state officials and the National Park Service, which operates a historical park at Kalaupapa, all promise they won't allow the visitor cap to be raised without approval from the remaining patients.
Anwei Law, a historian who has been coming to Kalaupapa for almost 40 years, said visitors need to remember that Kalaupapa is not just another tourist attraction.
"It's a sacred place because you've had so many people live there and die there," Law said. "It's a place where people had everything taken from them, but their response was not one of hatred."
Hansen's disease is spread by direct person-to-person contact, but isn't easily transmitted. It can cause skin lesions, mangle fingers and toes, and lead to blindness.
It's been curable since the development of sulfone drugs in the 1940s, and people treated with drugs aren't contagious. Hawai'i got rid of the exile policy in 1969.
Patients sent here before 1969 are free to leave, but many elected to stay because it has become their home. The state has promised to keep the settlement open and care for patients until the last one dies. The youngest is 67.
After that, the National Park Service will take over management of the peninsula.
The kingdom began strictly enforcing its isolation policy in 1873 — the year Damien arrived — sending hundreds of people to Kalaupapa even though there was no housing for them and no doctor. They were expected to build their own homes, grow their own food and make their own clothes, even though many were profoundly sick.
When a resident doctor finally arrived in 1879, he wouldn't touch anybody and left medicine on a fence post.
Damien, born in Belgium as Joseph de Veuster, put no barriers between himself and the patients.
He built homes, constructed a water system and imported cattle. He had no medical training, but he did have a medical book and a bag, and he made rounds washing and bandaging patient's sores.
He shared his pipe with patients and ate from the same bowl. Even before he contracted Hansen's disease, Damien began his sermons saying, "We lepers."
Damien was diagnosed with Hansen's disease 12 years after he arrived at Kalaupapa and died four years later, at age 49. He's the only healthcare worker in Hawai'i who ever contracted Hansen's.
Henry Nalaielua, 83, a patient who moved to Kalaupapa in 1941, said it would be "a glorious day" when Damien is canonized and would welcome pilgrims.
"I know all of us hope that he does become a saint, and that his church here will maybe become a shrine, instead of just Father Damien's church," Nalaielua said.