Wild in Waimea
By Maureen O'Connell
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WAIMEA VALLEY, O'AHU — From a lookout perch atop a quiet hillside here, you can see 1,000 shades of North Shore green shimmering in the breeze.
Makai, beyond the treetops, is a small bridge at Waimea River's mouth. Mauka: a bird's-eye view of Waimea Valley's photogenic 45-foot waterfall, or waihí, and a nearby red rock-studded ridge.
This serene scene is yours by way of guided hike offered through Hi'ipaka, the company that operates Waimea Valley.
The nonprofit, committed to environmental and cultural preservation efforts, is aiming to bring visitors a richer experience by allowing a variety of views of the valley. It offers weekly hikes of between three and five hours, shorter walking tours highlighting native plants and birds, Hawaiian cultural activities, from kapa demonstrations to makahiki games; and kupuna-led crafts, music and story sessions.
"Hawaiian culture is a living culture," said Gail Ann Chew, Hi'ipaka's executive director. "At the heart of our mission is to preserve and perpetuate the human, cultural and natural resources of Waimea ... through education and stewardship."
The 1,800-acre valley features one of O'ahu's last partially intact ahupua'a — a mountain-to-sea land parcel of the kind that formed the basis of pre-contact Hawaiians' land-use systems.
More than 700 years ago, after an island ruler awarded the land to high priests, or kahuna nui, Waimea Valley was dubbed "Valley of the Priests," according to an account published by the Office of Hawaiian Affairs. A recent archaeological study found 78 "sites of interest," including religious areas and shrines, house lots, agricultural terraces and fishponds.
As part of a cooperative land purchase involving city, state, federal and private sources, OHA acquired the property three years ago and created Hi'ipaka to manage it and hold the deed. "It is now in the hands of an entity committed to preserving and protecting it as it is," Chew said.
"Through the valley, we're trying to enable more people to practice their arts, crafts and to teach others" about culture and conservation, she said. Noting the valley's history as a place of learning, Chew added, "We're striving for Waimea to be that place again."
During the early 20th century, the valley was used for ranching and farming. By the 1960s and '70s, it was transformed as a theme park, offering Wild West stagecoach rides, rides in open-air trolleys and various shows.
Kanokule'a Haiku, Hi'ipaka's Hawaiian cultural field educator, recalls visiting the park as a child. "I really wanted to swim in the falls, but they wouldn't let you, because there were cliff divers," he said.
These days, Haiku, who serves as a hiking guide, routinely wades into the waihí's cool water after a trek through the valley.
"That's symbolic of what we're doing," he said. "People can now get their feet wet. They can actually get involved in the culture and get their hands dirty ... and really learn about the land."
Haiku also heads guided school programs, such as E Mälama i ka 'Äina ("Take Care of the Land that Sustains Us"). Through the program, tailored for elementary schools, students learn about composting, planting seeds and how to make a natural insect repellant to protect the plants.
Young students most enjoy getting their hands dirty in a compost crawling with millipedes, worms and earwigs, or pincerbugs. "That's the one that the kids just love," Haiku said with a laugh. "We have them dig around to see what kinds of animals live in a compost pile and help to break down organic matter."
Waimea Valley's 150-acre arboretum and botanical garden area, which took shape during the theme park decades, is filled with more than 5,000 species of tropical plants. Included are 437 species of the known 1,200 Hawaiian plants, thereby making it one of the most extensive collections of native plants anywhere, Haiku said.
The valley returned to its green-living roots about seven years ago, when Honolulu Hale picked up the property and awarded management to the National Audubon Society. It shut down all-terrain-vehicle trails carved in the mid-1990s by previous owners as part of an "adventure park." And since 2002, vehicles have been banned from the 3/4-mile paved path to the waterfall.
Hi'ipaka's management is drawing ongoing attention from environmentalists, Native Hawaiian groups and others. "We are all very sensitive that eyes are watching," Chew said, adding, "We are respectful of what's expected of us."
And how will Hi'ipaka staff members know when they are fully satisfying expectations?
Chew envisions one day closing her eyes to concentrate on the valley's sounds. In addition to the absence of motorized vehicles, she wants to hear wind rustling leaves, water rushing downstream and the traditional rhythms of poi- and kapa-pounding.
"When you walk into the valley and you hear those sounds," Chew said, "then, I believe, you will know that you've been successful."
EXPLORE THE REAL WAIMEA VALLEY
Kanokule'a Haiku leads hikes that will take you far from Waimea's paved paths and park-like setting, providing a view of a more untouched natural setting filled with culturally significant trees, such as koa and 'ohi'a.
"The hikes are in areas not accessible to the general public," said Haiku, a Hawaiian cultural field educator for Hi'ipaka, the nonprofit that operates Waimea Valley.
"I would say about 90 percent of the valley is back there and is virtually untouched forest."
On Haiku's hikes, which start at 9 a.m. on Saturdays, participants trek to ridges and lookout areas and learn about the valley's indigenous and introduced plants, archaeological sites and Hawaiian culture.
You may also cross paths with wild pigs and get your feet wet in at least one of the three streams that cut through the valley.
Haiku is particularly happy to show off the valley's native trees. "It's pleasing to see that those types of trees are surviving in their natural habitat, even though we have aggressive introduced plants," such as ironwood and strawberry guava, Haiku said.
"Side by side, they're growing. They're doing pretty well up there."
These guided hikes are available. Children must be accompanied by an adult.
• Ala Ki — Kalahe'e Ridge, following the newly marked Ala Ki trail; switchback trail through a mixed forest of exotic and native plants. Three hours, about 2 miles. Moderate to easy, for ages 7 and up.
• Kalahe'e — Kalahe'e Ridge, switchback trail through mixed forest. Three hours, about 2 miles. Moderate to easy. Ages 7 and older.
• South Ridge Lookout — South Ridge, behind the waterfall. Three hours, about 2 miles. Moderate hike. Ages 7 and older.
• North Valley Hike — Waimea's North Valley, from ridgeline to valley floor, traversing native "plant pockets." Four hours, about 6 miles. Moderate to strenuous. Ages 7 and older.
• South Ridge Loop Trail — Strenuous hike connecting South Valley to North Valley. Views of Ka'ena Point, Kaiwiko'ele Stream and Waimea Falls. Five hours, more than 6 miles. This hike can include several slippery stream crossings. Ages 12 and up.
• Kamananui Stream Trail — The most challenging hike. Kamananui Stream, above Waimea's waterfall. About one dozen stream crossings. Five hours, more than 6 miles. Steep ascents. Ages 12 and up.
For hiking reservations, call Hi'ipaka, 638-7766.