This is a monthly feature on how to make one cooking session produce several meals for the week. It is presented in partnership with the www.shareyourtable.com culinary Web site. For photos and a video on preparing swordfish and additional recipes, go to www.honoluluadvertiser.com and www.shareyourtable.com.

Swordfish is a succulent, flavorful fish caught in northern Hawaiian waters. It' s a fish that gets little notice in Hawai'i, even though it should: on the Mainland Hawai'i-caught swordfish is recognized as a top-quality product. Swordfish (also called mekajiki or shutome) has a high oil content, perfect for grilling or pan-frying. It has a smooth but firm texture and a distinctive flavor that can carry seasonings and condiments well.

"It's a very clean-tasting fish, and because it's fatty you can cook it in a lot of different ways," says chef Hiroshi Fukui of Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas restaurant, who is a fan of swordfish. "It's very fatty, and I like fatty fish."

Like any other fish, it's important to choose swordfish that is fresh. When you see it at the supermarket, the fish should glisten, showing off its high oil content. The bloodline should be bright pink/red; if it has turned red/brown, start looking for another piece of fish. Once you remove the wrapper, you shouldn't be able to smell the fish at all.

Fukui suggests cutting swordfish into thin steaks for pan-frying. "You can sear it, flip it and it's done."

The simplest of seasonings — salt and freshly ground pepper — will expose the great flavor of Hawai'i swordfish. You can use marinades, herbs or other seasonings if you wish. But remember not to marinate fish too long in acid-based liquids — those that contain citrus or vinegar — because the acid will begin to "cook" the fish and make the flesh firm.

Heat your grill or frying pan over high heat. Even though fish is delicate, you want to cook it over high heat. You want it to brown a little, to develop a little caramelization on the surface. Brush a little olive oil, vegetable oil or clarified butter on the fish before you cook it.

Cooking fish is all about timing: you want to cook it for just the right amount of time to retain the succulence and flavor that it is meant to deliver. There's nothing worse than overcooked fish — dry, tough and chewy.

Fish steaks are generally of uniform thickness and cook at a fairly uniform rate. To figure out the cooking time, note the thickness of the steak. One inch, three-quarters of an inch, a half-inch? Plan on about 8 minutes of cooking time per inch of thickness. Cook the fish on one side for about 4 minutes, turn it over and cook another 3 to 4 minutes. At about 7 minutes, start checking for doneness, inserting the tip of a thin knife into the center. You want all the traces of translucence in the flesh to be gone; the flesh should be nearly all white.

Most chefs, Fukui included, recommend cooking fish to medium or medium rare doneness. It's a personal preference but it also avoids drying out the fish. When fish is cooked just right, it will be moist, tender and succulent. And it will taste great the next day, too! (NOTE: Swordfish is probably best fully cooked. Pull it off the heat just before the center is fully cooked and allow it to finish cooking.)

WHAT IS SWORDFISH?

Swordfish, also known as broadbill, mekajiki and shutome, is a migratory billfish that's in season now through June. It's widely available in the Pacific Ocean, usually caught where ocean currents meet, creating turbulence in the water and differences in temperature and salinity.

Swordfish are known for their ferocity because of their long and distinctive bills that once pierced Hawaiian fishing canoes or struck fisherman trying to land them.

Hawai'i's fleet of longline boats finds concentrations of swordfish north of the Islands. Squid is a major component of the swordfish diet, and the fish migrate with the squid. Swordfish swim near the surface of the water at night, prime time for catching them with monofilament longlines with baited hooks. (NOTE: It is now illegal for swordfish longliners to use squid as bait.) Once caught, Hawai'i longliners take care to store the fish on ice after cleaning and dressing it.

Swordfish can range from 25 pounds to 600 pounds. Restaurants prefer "markers," fish of 100 to 250 pounds, because of the uniform premium cuts that can be portioned. "Pups" are 50 to 99 pounds while 25 to 49 pounders are referred to as "rats."

Swordfish flesh is pale to pinkish with red blood lines bordering the loin or fillet. The texture of the fish is firm but tender when cooked. Fat content is the key to good-quality swordfish.

Ideal for grilling, swordfish can also be sauteed, pan-fried or broiled. It is excellent on skewers and can be served as sashimi.